The
total depth percentage is a very important
element of a diamonds proportions and it
is greatly responsible for the amount of
brilliance that a diamond will display.
Diamonds
which have ideal to very fine cut with proper
total depth percentage provide the greatest
brilliance. The facets on the bottom of
a round brilliant cut diamond are called
pavilion facets. When you look at a round
brilliant cut diamond face-up, the pavilion
facets act as mirrors which reflect the
image of the table, the large facet on the
top of the diamond. This white table reflection
seen within the center of the diamond provides
the sparkle in the center of the diamond.
In a very
fine to Ideal cut diamond the diamond will
exhibit a white table reflection that appears
in the center of the table. This reflection
should be 1/4 to 1/2 the size of the large
table facet on top of the diamond.
Total Depth
Percentage = Depth Measurement / Average
Diameter
Example: 60% = 6 millimeters / 10 millimeters
= .60
Ideal
to Very Fine Cut Diamonds have total depth
percentages between 59% and 63%. Diamonds
within this range usually provide excellent
brilliance. Diamonds that have depths
outside these ranges usually cost less,
but a degree of brilliance is lost. The
diagram below illustrates how the white
table reflection changes in size as the
depth percentage changes.
The white table reflection appears larger
as the total depth percentage increases
and smaller as depth percentage decreases.
-
55.0% = Girdle seen in table
-
56.0% = reflection broken up
-
57.0% = reflection broken up
-
58.0% = 1/8 size of table
-
59.0% = 1/4 size of table
-
60.0% = 1/3 size of table
-
61.5% = 1/3 size of table
-
62.5% = 1/2 size of table
-
63.5% = 5/8 size of table
-
65.0% = 7/8 size if table
-
66.0% = Dark table facets
-
67.0% = Dark star facets
When depth
percentage becomes greater than 65% the
center of the diamond becomes dark as light
refracts through the bottom of the diamond.
The diagram
displays the appearance of diamonds with
total depth percentages that have proper
crown height, crown angles, pavilion depth
percentages and pavilion angles.
Proper
Total Depth Percentage Does Not Guarantee
Proper Cut. Total depth percentage
is very important but it can sometimes be
misleading. (See diagram below) Total depth
percentage is a representation of a diamonds
overall total depth. As the diagram illustrates,
it is possible for two diamonds to have
the same depth percentage and be proportioned
differently.
Total
depth percentage is a combination
of many other important elements of diamond
cut. These elements include crown
height, crown angle, pavilion depth percentage,
pavilion angle and girdle thickness.
These elements are properly proportioned
in ideal cut diamonds.
However,
some diamonds with total depth percentages
that are in the range of ideal may be improperly
cut and display less brilliance. A
diamond with ideal total depth percentage
may also have an overly deep bottom, (deep
pavilion depth percentage & steep pavilion
angles) and have a very low top, (low crown
height & shallow crown angle.) A simpler
example would be two men that are six feet
tall. One man has perfect symmetry. His
upper body is in proper proportion to his
lower body. The other man has very long
legs and a short waist.
A
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